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Top Ten Phone Apps
“Hey! Give me my phone- I want to park my car!”
Smart phone apps now number in the tens of thousands, some brilliant, some not so good and some awful! Several phone apps are now on the market for the motorist, and again, some good, some not. We’ve taken a long look at these and come up with some of the best, such as one app that parks your car for you! See if you agree.
PARKING APPS
1. ‘Park4U’
The most stunning of the lot is the ‘Park4U’ app. It lets you use your iPhone to park your car whilst you’re not even in it! It’s not a dream, it works and it’s here now-but there’s a catch.
Here’s a video of it in operation, so you can see for yourself it’s not dreamworld.
Now isn’t that brilliant? Particularly appropriate for tight spaces, eh? But the catch is that it only works with cars that have assisted parking as an option, cars like certain Audi and VW models, most of which are not yet available in Australia.
2. “When and Where’ and the BMW parking app.
‘Damn, overstayed and got a parking ticket!’. ‘Gee, can’t remember where I left the car!’
Has this happened to you? Well, it needn’t happen again if you download either of these apps. Both have a timer that you can set, and they shriek a reminder for you when time is almost up. They can also locate your car-even in a multi story car park, providing you have your GPS enabled on your phone. Check out these and others at your app store.
3. ‘Parkmate’
There are several apps on the market that locate local parking stations and even free spots roadside. One of the best is ‘Parkmate’. It’s free, does not seem to be aligned to any particular parking station owner, will browse for parking locations by operating hours, and gives details of local attractions or special rates. Its only obvious drawback is that it does not cover every town in Australia, but does cater for ‘major cities’.
4. ‘Park Patrol’
Park Patrol sends alerts to smart phone users when a parking officer is patrolling near their car-and local councils say there is nothing they can do about it!. It works by user support, but that can be a drawback. Each user sends in a report when they see a parking attendant. The server then cross checks and verifies the information and sends out the alert to all users who have registered as parking in that neighbourhood, and are located within 200m of the approaching parking officer. But that means it is totally dependent on user input, so, if there are few users on the system at any one time, alerts can be missed and you have suffered from a false sense of security.
MONEY SAVING APPS
5. ‘Gasbag’
There are numerous ‘fuel price apps’ available, but one of the best known is ‘Gasbag’ and that’s a double advantage, because they are all dependent on feedback from users, so the one that works best is the one with the biggest subscriber base that gives the most accurate feedback. Gasbag claims to identify the cheapest fuel in town at any one time. So you can decide whether you want to travel x kms to save y cents per litre.
Another popular fuel saver app is ‘Fill My Tank’, and is also dependent on user input. Sadly we couldn’t locate one that is provided by the fuel retailers!
6. NRMA Car Inspector.
This great little app can help you save money when you are choosing a new car, as well as comparing respective safety features. It’s free (you can download it from www.nrma.com.au) . There is extensive information about each vehicle you nominate and it can compare two vehicles at the same time for aspects such as fuel consumption, estimated annual fuel usage, safety and anti theft ratings and more.
SAFETY APPS
7. ‘Vlingo’
Android users will love ‘Vlingo’- similar to iPhone’s Siri. It’s a virtual assistant voice recognition that could mean that you will never be caught illegally using your phone in your car for texting, talking or checking out info. It’s not perfect, but it’s a vast improvement over getting caught using your phone in your car.
8. Driving Test Apps
Most state governments offer iPhone apps to help learners mug up on theory. There are also some private sellers, but be careful to check the reviews first, as some are not good (with little ‘random variance’ in the questions asked), but others claim to be much better than the official apps. Make sure the app is relevant to the state you live in, as some road rules vary from state to state.
FUN AND ENTERTAINMENT
9. ‘Australian Road Trip’
This is a great app for the traveller, offering a range of travel trips, accommodation, eateries, scenic routes and much more, covering all states. It claims to feature more than 350 entries and nearly 3000 photos. Available from your app store and well worth the $4.99 purchase price.
10. iBoost
Be part of the dream of being a supercar owner with this fun app. IBoost is the no.1 entertainment app in Japan apparently, and it innocuously transforms your little shopping runabout into a V8 supercar- at least as far as engine noise is concerned. Don’t worry about the noise police as it only transmits the sound effect inside your car! Great fun, particularly when shuffling along at snails pace in traffic.
So, that’s our top ten. There are probably hundreds more that deserve a mention, covering anything from car tuning through speed and camera alerts to points of interest and so much more. What are your favourite motoring apps? Have you tried any of the above? If so let us know below.
Postscript:- we introduced this article with a stunning parking app- in contrast have a look at ‘The ” here.
Tyre-oglyphics
If you’re new to the world of motoring or if, up until now, you’ve been one of those people who has changed tyres the lazy way (going to the mechanic and saying “Put another set on, mate.”), you might never have looked at the tyres closely. If you do crouch down beside them to wash them or whatever, you might notice a string of letters and numbers that look as though the cat has been walking on the computer keyboard. Something along the lines of 251hggggggggggggggggggggggggl (that wasn’t on the side of a tyre – that actually was the cat). Now, these numbers aren’t just put on there for the fun of it, to decorate the tyres or to give the blokes and blokesses who make and change the tyres something to look at. They’re to let you know important facts about your tyre.
Confession time: until quite recently, this writer was one of those lazy people when it came to changing tyres, and it was something that the other half took care of. I was more like Mr Bean in “Mr Bean’s Holiday”, where the word “Dunlop” on the tyre of Sabine’s Mini was about all he could recognize in a welter of gobbledegook. I had a code to learn and to decipher. The code isn’t that hard, really, once you have a sort of Rosetta Stone to help you learn the ancient secrets of tyre-oglyphics.
This code is used to decipher ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation) codes. As they’re international, you don’t have to get a new Rosetta Stone to decipher the tyreoglyphics for cars that have been imported. We’d all go mad if we had to do that and might even consider going back to bicycles, except they have codes on their tyres, too.
The first bit of the code is a letter. This indicates the sort of vehicle you should put the tyre on. The letter that most readers will have on their car tyres is P, which stands for passenger vehicle. However, if you have put on the space-saver tyre and haven’t bothered to change it to a real one after getting a flattie (bad idea but at least some manufacturers, such as Volvo, don’t compromise your safety for a bit of extra boot space and don’t give you these), you will see T for temporary, meaning that you’re only supposed to use it to limp to the mechanics. If you see ST, you’ve got a Special Trailer tyre and if you see LT, you’ve got a Light Truck tyre.
The second bit of the code is also fairly easy to understand. This consists of three letters in front of a slash (/). This gives you the tyre’s full width in millimetres, measured at the widest point. No worries there.
After the slash, it gets a wee bit harder and some bits are optional. First of all, you’ll get the tyre’s aspect ratio, which is a two-digit number, as it’s a percentage. The aspect ratio of a tyre is the sidewall height divided by the width. This number can be left out, in which case the aspect ratio is 82% (the % sign gets left off the tyreoglyphics).
Then you might get another letter that shows how the tyre has been made. This will give you an indication of how the tyre handles on the road. Here, B is for Bias Belt, D is for Diagonal and R is for Radial. If you don’t see a letter in this part of the tyreoglyphics, then the tyre is a good old cross-ply.
After this, you get the diameter of the tyre, which is very straightforward apart from one thing: it’s in inches. You’d think that in these days when nearly every country of the world except for the USA uses metrics for everything that we’d be using millimetres or centimetres to measure tyre diameters. However, like TV screens and certain parts of the male anatomy, tyre diameter sticks with inches, and in two cases out of three, the general rule is that the big ones are the luxurious versions. Take a look at any vehicle that has a luxury variant or a sporty upgrade on the bog-standard type: chances are that the posh version has bigger tyres. For example, the basic Opel Corsa has 15-inch tyres, the Opel Corsa Colour has 16-inch tyres and the sports upgrade has 17-inches.
Then you get into the really hard bits. After the diameter, you’ll find a two-digit code indicating the load index, which indicates the maximum load (weight) that the tyre can carry. However, the ISO haven’t done anything as sensible as making this number equal the weight in kilos or even pounds. A mathematician could probably find the formula that links a weight of 280 kg (or 620 pounds) to the figure of 64 and all the rest of it. But for the rest of us who aren’t maths professors, there’s nothing to do but to learn the codes or look them up. You can find load index tables online really easily: here’s one.
After the load index, you get the speed index, which is another code. The speed index tells you the maximum speed you can go when the tyre is carrying the maximum load. This is coded as a letter and is a bit easier to wrap your head around. At first glance, it looks easy, but there’s a few quirks. If you have a tyre with A on the side (unlikely these days), it’ll have a number after the letter: A1 means the maximum speed is 5 km/h, A2 means 10 km/h and so forth up to A8 meaning 40 km/h. So far, so good. B is 50 km/h and C is 60 km/h, but D isn’t what you would expect and is 65 km/h while E is 70 km/h. The rest of the alphabet progresses more or less normally, going up a letter for every 10 km/h, except that I has been left out because it looks like a one and the person who wrote this code decided that H, W and Y need to go where you don’t usually see them. H goes between U and V, and indicates a maximum speed of 210 km/h. W comes after Z and indicates 270 km/h and Y comes last of all and indicates 300 km/h. If you see a set of parentheses around the W or the Y, it means that you can go over these speeds, so (W) means you can go over 270 km/h and (Y) means you’re a race driver who can go over 300 km/h.
This just scratches the surface of tyreoglypics, and there are other odds and ends you can find on your tyre, including codes to say that this particular tyre is approved by, say, Mitsubishi and Toyota (MZ). But that thing with the letters and numbers with a slash in the middle is the really important one. Ask your mechanic about the rest.
Have Caravan, Will Travel
Experiencing the charming realm of a caravan holiday is hugely stress-reducing, and caravanning is a simple and easy way of going bush with a few of the extra creature comforts that can make the adventure that much more laid-back and comfortable. If you’ve ever had the chance to camp, most of you will agree that the relaxing times in tents and caravans, away from technology, can be one of the best ways to recharge your body batteries. Caravans offer much more comfort and shelter than a tent, and they can be kitted out with everything that you need for camping. So, when the time comes to head away, you just hook up the caravan and away you go.
Touring Australia by caravan is the best way, I reckon. Although, my love of motorcycling is hard to flick off. The right car for the job is a big must. Not just any vehicle is going to be happy towing a caravan, so you’re advised to check what the vehicle manufacturer says your vehicle can tow. If you want to tackle some of the more remote areas, which will inevitably mean you’ll travel Outback roads and tracks, then a 4×4 like a Nissan Patrol, Land Rover Discovery or Toyota Land Cruiser will do the job, no probs. Your caravan will also need to be up to the task of travelling off the tarmac, and there are plenty of very good caravan designs which are suitable for off-road work. Roadstar Caravans and Creative Caravans are two examples of Australian caravan manufacturers who make a super nice caravan that can withstand the rigours of off-road work.
If the idea of getting lost in the Outback is not for you, then caravanning the coast of Australia is easy-as, and can be done in your Holden Cruze or Toyota Corolla – even, as long as you stick with towing lightly designed caravans. Just think: cheap accommodation, your own bed, own food and you can even get up and leave when you want to. Now that sounds relaxing!
What to do when nature calls? If your caravan doesn’t have a built in bathroom and toilet, then the best way to cater for heading off to the loo is by using one of the vast array of portable toilets. These are very easy and cheap to buy at any outlet that sells camping gear. Even Kmart will have one. A spade in the boot is the next best option. You can use this for digging a long drop – and when you get your vehicle stuck the spade is a must have.
Having a good supply of fresh clean drinking water and plenty of easy-to-make meals is a good idea. Take some candles for lighting purposes, as thay are not only simple and easy to use, they create a romantic atmosphere to you caravan interior as you sit sipping wine and watching the red sun set. Sometimes Australia can get really cold, particularly overnight. Do make sure that you have a good supply of blankets and warm clothing. A good Australian atlas is a must, especially one that will show you where the caravan parks, camping areas and 4WD tracks are – not to mention fuel outlets. If the track you care to take will take you to the never-nevers, then it’s wise to let someone know your whereabouts and your expected time of arrival. An emergency kit with anti-venom and a cell phone are other really important items.
Whatever the vehicle is that you are using for towing the caravan, make sure that you are up-to-date with its servicing. The last thing you want is a break down in the middle of nowhere. Checking the condition of the caravan is important, too. The chassis, wheel bearings and tyres are the key areas to keep in good nick. Carrying some tools and materials for emergency repairs is a wise idea – depending on how ‘go bush’ you will be going.
Heading off in your favourite drive, be it the C-Class Estate, Landie or Sportwagon, with a caravan towing behind, there are fewer more satisfying ways of exploring this great country of ours. And whether you have children or not, you are going to make for yourself some great long-lasting memories.
Selling a Second-Hand Car: Selling Online
The chances are if you’re on the hunt for a new set of wheels that you already have one set sitting in your garage or on your driveway. You can, of course, trade the old vehicle in for the new one, but you tend to get a few more shekels if you sell it yourself – well, usually. This depends on the vehicle you’re selling and what your local car dealer can offer you in the way of a trade-in. But often, if you do your homework, you end up working out that you can probably get more by being your own used car salesman/woman/person.
Online auction sites like EBay (by far the most popular and international online sales site) are very popular for selling off your stuff. People go on that site for fun “just to have a wee look at what’s out there” and also when they’re seriously hunting for a car. And there are many upsides to doing so, as well as the odd downside.
One of the downsides is that you usually have to pay an insertion fee – after all, the operators of EBay have to eat. And even though listing some things on EBay can be done for free, cars can’t be, as you’ll find out if you read the small print. And you also have to pay a percentage of the final selling price. Make sure that you factor these costs in when you set the reserve price on the auction. At this point, you still want to be sure that you’re getting more cash in hand for your old wheels than you would get by using the vehicle as a trade in. Also consider this when setting your reserve price and your “buy now” price. The same applies to other online auction sites that allows private individuals to list stuff for sale.
To get a good idea of what your starting price and what your reserve price should be, have a look at other cars listed of the same age and type as the one you’re selling. Your price should be roughly around the same level, although you need to take mileage and overall condition into consideration.
Photos are an absolute must when you’re selling a vehicle online, but not all photos are alike. It can get a little ho-hum if the only photos you put up just show the exterior of the car from different angles. Yes, your car looks pretty good and you’ve done a nice job with the polish, but often buyers want to know more than just that – at least I would. If you’re looking for, say, a Honda Accord, and you see half a dozen listings that just show the front and side, and they’re all similar colours, they all start to look the same. So what sort of photos should you include?
- Side, front and rear views of the vehicle, and ensure that the licence plate is showing
- Shot of the dash and possibly a close-up of the odometer to prove that the mileage is really what you say it is.
- View of the boot plus things like the spare tyre.
- Shot of the engine bay – it doesn’t have to be steam cleaned!
- If the seats fold down, show them in folded and upright position
- A shot of any special features, e.g. alloy wheels
- A shot of any flaws that you’ve mentioned in your description so the viewers know exactly what they’re in for, e.g. that worn tyre or that little ding.
Be reasonably detailed when describing your vehicle and don’t just copy and paste the relevant page out of our car reviews (I’ve seen this done). Let your buyers know all the basic stats like the year, the engine size, the mileage, and all that sort of thing. If it’s got any special features or if you’ve recently replaced some parts, then list these as well (e.g. “brand new tyres on front”).
You may or may not want to list minor flaws. The key word here is “minor” – small things that you’d like to know if you were the buyer. You may also want to list the reason you’re selling it, but use discretion. “Owner going overseas,” “Expecting new addition to the family,” and “We’re downsizing and don’t need a second vehicle,” are all good reasons why you could be selling, but don’t explain that “It’s a thirsty brute and I’m not supporting its drinking habit any longer.”
There are a lot of cars for sale online so your vehicle may not sell the first time you list it. Often, the second attempt is more successful (but you might strike it lucky first time). Patience pays off… or you might like to try another method.
Level 2, 9 Help Street